Even when it is not in flower, the forest lily is a handsome plant. A single bulb produces a large rosette of broad, glossy leaves, fleshy in texture and wonderfully curled and crimped along the margins. Older plants that have had time to settle in and produce offsets, can fill a large container with this lush and refreshing greenery.
Veltheimia In Flower
In the depths of winter, the flowering raceme of the forest lily slowly begins to emerge. At first, this is a tight head of green buds, scarcely visible in the centre of the leafy rosette. Over the course of a month or two, this elongates into a sturdy stem up to 60 cm high, pleasantly tinged with purple and covered with a waxy, glaucous bloom.
This carries at its apex an inflorescence that is so reminiscent of the ever-popular red hot pokers (Kniphofia) that the forest lily is sometimes called the winter red hot poker. At first, the tubular flowers point upwards but as they open in succession, they hang their heads.
The forest lily is a variable plant, and the flowers can be different shades of rosy to dusky pink. Some have orange tints, others are marked with green, and there is also a variety with greenish yellow flowers.
A Tiny Genus
Veltheimia is a South African genus containing only two species, Veltheimia bracteata and Veltheimia capensis. Of the two, Veltheimia bracteata is by far the better-known plant; its relative is rather more demanding and requires full sun in order to thrive.
Veltheimia in turn forms part of the family Hyacinthaceae, a large alliance of bulbous plants that includes Ornithogalum, the much-loved native English bluebell, and Lachenalia, the lovely Cape Hyacinths.
Growing Veltheimia bracteata
Forest lilies can be grown in the open garden in regions without frost, but they are better known in horticulture as container plants. Grown this way, they make ideal houseplants for a bright location out of direct sun, a conservatory, or for the patio during the summer months.
In nature, this species grows in forests and areas of coastal scrub. Unlike Veltheimia capensis, it requires conditions of semi-shade where harsh sunlight cannot scorch the foliage. If plants are to be placed outside during the warmer months, ensure a sheltered position as gusts of wind can easily break the substantial but rather fragile leaves.
Choose a container large enough to allow for several years of growth, and plant the large bulb with its neck just showing above the surface of the compost. The growing medium should be well drained and enriched with humus or other organic matter.
Water the plants well, and feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks throughout the growing and flowering period.
Veltheimia bracteata cannot tolerate freezing weather, and although it is able to endure brief light frosts, it is far better to be cautious and avoid sub-zero temperatures altogether.
The forest lily has a short period of rest from mid to late Summer until growth recommences in Autumn. Plants may lose their leaves during this period: however, some growers report that their plants are virtually evergreen, even when they reduce watering to encourage dormancy. With such attractive foliage, this reluctance to rest can only be an added advantage.
Propagation
Growing bulbs from seed is very rewarding and, in the case of Veltheimia, is a relatively easy process. In their natural environment, the flowers of the forest lily are pollinated by birds seeking nectar, but in cultivation they are frequently self-fertile.
After flowering, the forest lily produces large, papery, three-sided seed capsules. These ripen during the summer and the large seeds can be collected and sown in Autumn. Use a sowing medium of one part peat or peat substitute, to one part of horticultural sand, and sow the seeds thinly at a depth of 4 mm.
To encourage germination, the seeds of Veltheimia should be subjected to a pronounced day-night temperature fluctuation. They usually germinate within five weeks and can then be grown on to flower in three or four years time.
As with their distant relatives, the lachenalias, Veltheimia can be grown from leaf cuttings. Choose mature leaves from established plants, remove them close to the bulb, and insert them to a third of their depth in sandy compost. Treat the cuttings with fungicide, and with luck, bulbils will form at their base in 8-10 weeks.
The forest lily also reliably produces offsets which can be separated at the end of the summer and potted up individually. These new plants will usually flower the following year. However, it is best to divide Veltheimia infrequently, in order to enjoy the sight of an established flowering clump of these handsome plants at their very best.
References
Pacific Bulb Society: Veltheimia
The Succulent Plant Page: The Hyacinth Page: Veltheimia
Peter Ashby - Peter Ashby lives near Granada in southern Spain, is an expert on natural history, and a dedicated traveller, writer and hispanist.
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